The first time I saw Sagada almost two years ago, I fell in love with it. A challenging semester just ended and my friends from grad school and I decided to unwind for the weekend. I promised myself that I would come back the moment I have the chance. And so I did. My birthday, which was a Monday, turned out to be a holiday at the school where I work and the next day was declared as a holiday after the school’s basketball team won the championship for the fourth time in a row. The lakwatsera in me just thought it was the perfect time to experience the mountains again.
Sagada is a lovely and peaceful town in Mountain Province with a population of around 15,000. A favorite among the European tourists, it is a 6-hour grueling bus ride from Baguio City and 12 to 14 hours away from Manila via bus and jeepney. On my birthday, Aiza and I boarded the 6:30 AM Lizardo Bus at Dangwa Station at the back of Centermall in Baguio. We visited the station the day before and learned that they don’t accept reservations. After paying our fare (250 pesos), we put our bags in the bus where we met a fellow passenger named Lissa who occupied a seat next to ours. We arrived at the station pretty early so before the bus left, we had time for a quick coffee in a restaurant nearby where we also bought sandwiches for the road. We knew how bumpy the ride was so we took anti-dizzy tablets before boarding the bus. Good thing we did because the bus ride was extremely shaky and we couldn’t sleep without being disturbed by the sudden bumps. During the bus stop, Lissa told us that she felt like she was going to throw up so Aiza kindly gave her the extra anti-dizzy tablet that she had.
We arrived in Sagada after noon and immediately headed to George Guesthouse, the same inn where my friends and I stayed two years ago. Nothing has changed much about the guesthouse, except probably for the guests. It’s still very cheap; we paid 600 pesos per night for a room with two single beds and a television set. If you’re new in Sagada, visit the municipal hall first where you can find the tourist information center where all tourists register. You can also find the schedule of the trips to and from Sagada there. The locals are used to tourists coming in and out of the town, and based on the numerous inns, restaurants, cafés, and souvenir shops, the town seems to be a tourist destination for quite a long time. If accommodations are cheap, the food might be a bit pricy for budget travelers. Meals usually range from 100 to 150, depending on the restaurant. If you’re a coffee lover, you would probably love their coffee, too. Almost every restaurant serves Cordillera or Sagada coffee but we had the best coffee at Bana’s Café and Resto the next day.
Aside from the hanging coffins and cool weather, Sagada is famous for its caves. The most popular ones are the Lumiang burial caves and Sumaguing cave. I think I’ve mentioned before that Sumaguing Cave is probably one of the most beautiful caves that I’ve ever seen but it’s not really an easy cave for spelunking. While on our way down with our guide, Matthew, we saw a woman who decided not to go inside the cave with her group. We also saw another one who returned after going down. The cave is divided into three stages. The first time we went there, I only reached the second stage. This time though, we were able to reach the third stage where we dived into a pool of cold water. The spelunking lasted for almost 3 hours and it was almost 6 pm when we came out of the cave. It is not advisable to go to the caves without a guide. Aside from safety concerns, the guides also make sure that visitors do not vandalize the caves. Our guide told us about a group of tourists who explored the cave without a guide and found themselves stuck inside for seven hours without any source of light.
We celebrated my birthday by having dinner at Yoghurt House which is famous for its homemade yoghurt made from cow’s milk. Yoghurt aside, I love the kind of music that they play in this restaurant. We realized that we were the only Filipinos in the restaurant, which was filled with European tourists. While waiting for the food, we saw Lissa coming in the restaurant with her husband and few other guests. She immediately recognized us and stopped for a chat. Later, she introduced us to her husband and we realized that she’s married to a famous artist and photographer from Baguio.
More about this trip in the next post.












